River Trip

 In the longboat

Today we visited a traditional Fijian village. We were bussed to the nearest town, Navua, where we were piled into Fijian longboats and driven up the Navua river to the village, about 15 minutes duration. When we arrived we were welcomed by the blowing of the conch shell and the rhythmic drumming on the Fijian drums, before being shepherded into a large hut with incredible drawing and paintings on the roof.

Welcoming drums

Kava ceremony

Here we witnessed a traditional Fijian welcome for visitors, including the kava ceremony. Kava comes from a pepper plant which is harvested after at least five years (the longer the stronger is the kava), the roots are washed in the river and left to dry for several weeks, then pounded into a fine powder. This powder is then mixed with water and filtered through muslim into a carved kava dish. There is much ceremonial toing and froing here between the chief's spokesman and the visitors' spokesman, all in Fijian so we could not understand a word of it. Then kava was served in a coconut half to one gentleman who had been selected a representative of the visitors. You have to clap once before receiving it, say "Bula!" before drinking it, then down it in one gulp and clap three times afterwards. Those who drank it said it tasted like muddy water, and it looked like it too. It is somewhat narcotic and makes the lips and tongue numb. Enough consumption of it will eventually numb the entire body.

Kindergarten children

After the kava and welcoming ceremony we were given a tour of the village, including songs sung to us by the kindergarten students and a demonstration of craft making using the local plants which are pounded down to make a sort of parchment, similar to papyrus. These are decorated with paints made from clay and lamp black and stencils made out of old x-ray films, of all things. Previously leaves had been used for stencils but they could only be used once, whereas the films lasted for years.

Then it was onto the coconut hut where coconuts are processed. The Fijians use every bit of the coconut, including the outer husk that a Fijian lad expertly removed in about 20 seconds with the aid of a sharp stake embedded in the ground. Brown coconuts, those that fall from the tree are used only in cooking for the coconut milk. Green coconuts, which must be obtained by climbing the coconut palm are used for food, rope, bowls, jewellry and garden fertilizer.

Removing husk from coconut

By now it was lunch time, so we were escorted to the lovo, or underground oven area. Hot rocks heated in a fire are placed in a deep pit then covered with large leaves. The food to be cooked, now wrapped in alfoil but traditionally wrapped in leaves, are placed on top of the covered rocks then covered with hessian and finally a layer of dirt and left for about an hour. Result - perfectly cooked food as we can attest to because we then ate it! After lunch, the women of the village rolled out various wares and handcrafts in the big hut for sale. We bought quite a bit for people back home.

It was now time to leave the village, so it was back into the longboats again and we motored up river to a waterfall for an afternoon swim. On the way we saw an unusual sight, I'll let the picture describe it as it is better than words.

Not something you see everyday

Once we arrived at the waterfall site, we had to trek a little inland, over a recently constructed concrete path. Visitors previous to 2008 had to wade up the river to get to the waterfall. The waterfall was about 35 metres high and plunged into a pool at its base, which apart from the very rocky bottom that was hard on our bare feet, was perfect for swimming. The more adventurous of us, including your erstwhile scribe, ventured under the waterfall to feel its incredible force. You couldn't stay there for very long, believe me.

Arriving at the waterfall

After swimming for around an hour, it was time for the trek back down the river, by longboat for the timid, or by bamboo raft for the braver lot. I took the more risky route down and clambered aboard this rickety looking bamboo raft and we shot the rapids as we floated down the river. After only two sets of rapids, however, we were transferred back to the longboats again, as continuing on the rafts would see us returning back to base around midnight or so and I for one, did not relish a dark night on the river!

Under the waterfall

Finally we arrived back at the bus for our return back to the Fiji Palms. Six of us piled into the spa for a relaxing soak, ordered some LLB's and became the attraction of some of the other members of the group who thought we made a good photographic subject.  When we felt waterlogged enough, we climbed out, watched  "Fried Green Tomatoes" on the DVD then retired to bed.

Yours truly on the raft

Me and my harem